engine identification

[pipes]

I have a side valve engine with the following marks on and i dont know what it is. Is there anyone who will be able to help.
1G340 R.B or R.8 these are cast in to the block. The serial number is
1G1148135 or 1G1148/35.
I would be very pleased if anyone knows about this. It has round inlet and exhaust ports and there is some sort of ventilation duct in the top cover in the middle of the two centre spark plugs. I have pictures.
Thakns for taking the time to read this
Martin

[Dave Waller]

The numbers you quote sound very much like Austin 10 engine numbers. Is the engine one lump, ie block and crankcase cast as one unlike the A7 engine which has iron block and ali crankcase. The 'ventilation' duct you mention would be the water outlet to the radiator. If you can email a photo it should be easy to confirm.

[bob1960]

hi dave my austin 7 has really bad oil pressure, when i start it cold the needle goes up 3/4 of the way but after about 1 mile the pressure drops to nothing. Do you think a set of big ends would help? Or if not can you adjust the pump, or have you anyother ideas? many thanks bob

[Reckless Rat]

A standard A7 engine has a 'splash fed' oil system and very low oil pressure (under 5psi) when hot is quite normal. There should be a higher reading when cold due to the increased viscosity but after that a very low reading is quite OK. However, what is NOT good is a high reading - it will indicate that one or more of the oil jets is blocked. Just remove the blanking plugs and poke them through with a wire to clear them. It is worth pointing out too that there is no oil filter, just a gauze between the sump and the crankcase which should be removed and cleaned when servicing.

Standard SAE30 is the recommended oil, but failing that (and providing the internals are clean) a multigrade such as 20-50 is OK.

[bob1960]

hi in response to your post There is no oil pressure on my car when it is hot unless i rev it up a bit then about 5 or so psi I was wondering could i adjust the relese valve on the oil pump or put a set of big ends as i am afraid to drive any distance in case does any harm to the shaft many thanks bob

[Dave Waller]

My Ruby is exactly the same, after it warms up it is about 1 or 2lbs. This is normal. A very low reading when hot is OK. Probably will rise a bit when grinding up a steep hill and sit on the 0 when stationary. Don't confuse yourself with modern cars with high oil pressures. Rekkers has explained the danger is when the reading suddenly goes up when driving. This is a blocked oil jet and must be cleared immediately.
Remember the wise saying: IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT.
You need to drive the car about more and get confidence in it. Start fiddling with it and you may well cause more grief.
If you still need to satisfy yourself that oil is circulating, undo the union on the engine block that feeds the oil gauge and watch it pump out all over the place - just like the BP well.

[Reckless Rat]

Just as an aside... the Austin Seven engine doesn't have big end shells, the journals are white metalled and then lapped to fit the crank. This is a specialist job so don't pratt about with the crank/big ends unless you know what you're doing. Leave well alone unless it's bust! The standard two bearing crank has oil wells in the webs which pulls oil to the big end journals by centrifugal force, the oil is sprayed onto the crank by the oil jets on the main gallery, and splashed about to lubricate the undersides of the pistons etc. There is little or no oil pressure except when cold or revving hard, so don't expect any. It's not a sign that there's anything wrong, they're all like that. Providing the oil pump is doing what it's supposed to do (see comment by Dave in his last post re the feed to the gauge) then that's all that's necessary for a healthy engine.

Furthermore... the two bearing engine is prone to crankshaft whip. It flexes, so thrashing the nuts off it can cause a breakage. Treat it with a bit of respect, however and it will give years of service. The crankshaft bearings are ball/roller bearings, not white metal. It is normal for the crank to rumble when the ignition is well advanced. The manual adjustment of the distributor enables you to advance it up to 'rumble' and then back it off a bit for optimum performance.

However, the term "performance" is a misnomer as regards the Austin Seven. It wasn't even an optional extra. A standard engine develops 10.5 brake HP so don't expect much! What they lack in get up and go they more than make up for the ability to keep going, albeit slowly for mile after mile. Expect 45mph flat out on the flat with a following wind, and no more than 25mph when climbing hills.

[Dave Waller]

All good stuff Rekkers but one thing, the later 3 bearing engines did have shells, I have them in my '38 Ruby. Bob1960 hasn't said, as far as I can see, which model his 7 is and whether it has a 2 or 3 bearing engine.
Can you let us know please.

[bob1960]

hi dave and rekkers thank you both for all your help my austin 7 is 1938 and if there is shells would it help the pressure if i fitted new ones can you do the job by taking the sump down and is pressure relese relese valve on the pump adjustibleas as this oil press is 0 when warm one more question will i lose power if i retard the timing many thanks bob

[Reckless Rat]

Bob, I don't think you've got a problem with your oil pump, but to make sure do us a favour... answer the following questions:

1. are your big ends rattling?
2. when up to temperature, do you still get a reading when the engine is revved?
3. have you loosened the union from the crankcase to the oil pressure gauge to see if oil is flowing? (when hot)
4. have you checked the oil jets (on the o/s of the crankcase) to ensure they are clear?
5. can you get 45mph out of the car on the flat?

If you retard the timing you will lose power AND the engine may overheat. Best position is advanced until the crank starts to rumble, and then back off a bit. This normally relates to 1 +1/4" circumferential advance of TDC at the flyweel, points just opening, but you may have to fine tune.

Finally... can you confirm that your car is an Austin Seven and not an Austin BIG Seven?
What are the chassis & engine numbers.

[Dave Waller]

Bob, I can only echo Rekkers comments. I guess this is your first A7? Do you belong to an Austin 7 Club? Which area do you live? Can I suggest that you get another local A7 owner to have a look at the car, take them for a ride in order to put your mind at rest. Everything that you have described about your oil pressure is perfectly normal for an A7.

[grahamanne]

I recently purchased a 2 bearing engine which the seller said had been overhauled. Before running the engine I cranked it over using the starter motor in order to fill the oilways etc as it had been lying for some time. Seeing no pressure on the gauge I disconnected the pipe,as suggested, to find no oil flow. Now being worried that I may have been conned ,I stripped the engine down to investigate. The engine had indeed been over hauled- rebored ,new pistons etc crank reground , big ends remetalled,new mains etc, new studs ,nuts, tab washers etc. The job looked to have been well done.
HOWEVER, the oil pump had been incorrectly assembled. The gasket had been installed between the cover plate and pump body instead of between the body and crankcase. The oil pump vanes had duly chewed up the gasket causing them to stick and/or pass oil.
It is easy to see how this mistake happens. The Austin spare parts lists show pictures of the various oil pump parts but unfortunately the arrangement of the pictures on the page implies that the gasket fits between the cover plate and body.
The engine now runs well with oil pressure off the gauge when cold dropping back to 2or3 pounds when hot, as is normal for an A7.
I am not suggesting that you have a similar problem but if you go ahead and strip the engine then be aware of the above. I am sure it must happen often.

[Dave Waller]

You did the right thing in testing before starting up. Taking off the oil pipe proved a problem, however Bob has got oil pressure when cold dropping, down when warm as normal. As we have suggested, disconnecting the oil pipe will show that oil is flowing. As Bob has been using his car, even for short journeys had there been no oil flow then it would most likely have seized by now. It would by interesting to know what maximum pressure is shown on Bob's oil gauge as normally when cold the needle hits the stop as he says it only goes 3/4 of the way. It is possible that there is a kink in the oil pipe to the gauge giving a false reading or he has the wrong gauge fitted.